Divino Wine Studio has shifted its focus from its earliest days as a high tech wine classroom and tasting bar that happened to have a kitchen, toward a more serious food destination (that happens to have a fabulous wine list.) A daily list of all-Italian wines by the glass are in a more accessible range, and a superbly fresh menu of mostly locally sourced products — presented on both small plates and large — is tasting mighty fine.

New chef Jessica Hendren’s food is rustic but polished. Soup arrives as an iced trio of seasonal treats. Sweet peas and shaved fennel stud a risotto cake that sops up the seafood juices from mussels, scallops and prawns, all in superior condition. Roasted red pepper colours toothsome gnocchi. The fettuccine of the day is delicious. Hand-rolled and cut, perfectly cooked, slick with oil and simply treated with garlic and zucchini blossoms. Close with budino if it’s on offer.