Food life in the Fez Medina

“There are, give or take, ten thousand lanes in there,” our Fez taxi driver tells us as we wait outside the Batha Gate for our hotel porter. “The narrow streets were built to be complicated. It made it more difficult for the invaders.”

It’s no picnic for modern invaders either. Every map of the Fez Medina looks like a CT scan of some fibrous part of the human body. Or a cross-section of a frontal lobe. Every hotel and restaurant has their version of the map, which they hand out like life preservers to floundering travellers. Some are faded photocopies, some more polished and colourful. All, I guarantee you, are useless. One minute after the door of the hotel (café or shop) clicks shut behind us, maps in hand, and we are lost and confused…

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