“But what of restaurants with staying power, with pedigree, with a noble history? The truth is, they tend to fall off the page.”
I wrote a food feature for Ottawa Magazine’s Holiday issue, on veteran restaurants I still consider of genuine quality. I defined ‘veteran’ as those place that have blown out ten candles. (Two of the ten on the list have blown out many many more than that.) In an age so giddy with novelty, the goal was to salute these senior restaurants, still very much in the game.