Enter the diminutive St Martha’s Brasserie d’Orléans and you won’t be transported to the great gastro palaces of Paris. But you will have a pretty good lunch, complete with brasserie-boffo frites. Service could use a buffing, though. And a noon crowd would help the atmosphere. Still, this new Orleans eatery is checking boxes in more than just requisite brasserie décor.
I had the special. It was a soup and sandwich combo for $10. The server informed me it came with soup and frites. Later, I’m told it was actually either soup or frites. Or salad. (He’s new, it’s new, there’s a kitchen-to-server conversation needed.) I chose soup. It was duck consommé. As soups go, it doesn’t get much more French. The broth had a gentle, clean flavour, though the brunoise of carrot were mushy.
Along with my soup, the sandwich still showed up with a few very good fries (the kitchen had taken some pity on me). The sandwich was house-made foccacia around grilled sausages and mushrooms, caramelized red onion, and greens. It could have used a bit of mustard punch, but that was solved when I asked for dijon. Once smeared in, it became a very nice sandwich. Company would have added to the pleasure of it.
Orleans is desperate for good places to eat. This one is showing promise.