I know I know I know. I reviewed Town two months ago. This isn’t more of that. It’s merely a little addendum, an afterbite, a “Hurrah!” for its roast chicken, not ordered or mentioned in my March report. Mentioned now.
I support A Taste for Life, the brilliant initiative now 14 years old, to raise funds for Bruce House and the Snowy Owl Aids Foundation. It works like this: Eat, Drink, Pay as per usual, and the participating restaurant does the good for you. It donates 25% of your bill (food and wine, before tip and taxes) to those two worthy charities. I tend to book and go for my own pleasure, leaving pen at home. This year I decided to go to Town after I received a charming invitation from Bruce House Program Director Jennifer Bruce to join her there.
I had the flattened chicken (sous-brick) with a rich, earthy jus made tangy with fermented (blackened) garlic. It was brilliant. On a bed of gossamer potatoes dolloped (why ever not?) with mascarpone, and strewn with sweet leaves of bitter Brussels sprouts, cubes of butternut squash, finished with a lawn of snipped chives and jewels of pomegranate seeds. Really REALLY good.