Oh, what a bird!

I know I know I know. I reviewed Town two months ago. This isn’t more of that. It’s merely a little addendum, an afterbite, a “Hurrah!” for its roast chicken, not ordered or mentioned in my March report. Mentioned now.

I support A Taste for Life, the brilliant initiative now 14 years old, to raise funds for Bruce House and the Snowy Owl Aids Foundation. It works like this: Eat, Drink, Pay as per usual, and the participating restaurant does the good for you. It donates 25% of your bill (food and wine, before tip and taxes) to those two worthy charities. I tend to book and go for my own pleasure, leaving pen at home. This year I decided to go to Town after I received a charming invitation from Bruce House Program Director Jennifer Bruce to join her there.

I had the flattened chicken (sous-brick) with a rich, earthy jus made tangy with fermented (blackened) garlic. It was brilliant. On a bed of gossamer potatoes dolloped (why ever not?) with mascarpone, and strewn with sweet leaves of bitter Brussels sprouts, cubes of butternut squash, finished with a lawn of snipped chives and jewels of pomegranate seeds. Really REALLY good.







3 responses to “Oh, what a bird!”

  1. Jen Bruce Avatar

    Good morning Anne!

    Forget breakfast – going to save room, and see if town. can squeeze me in this aft for chicken!

    On behalf of Bruce House’s extended family, thank you for your and Ken’s generous support of A Taste for Life ’12 – my only regret is not having more time to speak to the two of you, as well as to all the other friends who joined on April 25th.

    Any time you’re in need of a date to try a new spot downtown, please drop me a line!

    – Jen

  2. Mike Avatar

    Anne, I can’t help but notice that the dish you tried during this visit(and the dishes you tried on your visit a few months ago to town) are all dishes that were there well over a year ago when Steve Wall was still the chef at town. I loved Chef Wall’s food at town but I would love to hear your take on the newer dishes that are on the menu.

    IMO, the newer dishes don’t stand up to Chef Wall’s older dishes and the mix of the old and new on the menu doesn’t gel

    1. Anne Avatar

      Hmmm… point taken, Mike. That roast chicken has been a mainstay on the town menu since opening day, as well executed at this visit as in the days of Wall. But I’ll be more aware of the newer dishes next time I take town for a spin. Thanks for your thoughts.

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